- 1. Its a pretty simple job to CT convert a standard 5000,
6000 or 7000 series ABU cage. The only tools you will need
are a hacksaw, pliers, screwdriver and some form of tape.
The CT Conversion Bar and Studs (pictured above) that will be
fitted to the cage can be purchased in our Tuning
and Conversions section. Rather than use Conversion Studs many
people simply use the ends of the existing top bar as studs.
If you decide on this approach you will also need a small metal
file and maybe some emery cloth. We suggest that you
read the complete article before attempting this conversion.
Please also note that CT Studs and Bar are sold separately.
- 2. This particular cage is from my old 1980s 6000 which
has had a hard life as an uptiding reel and is long overdue to
lose its level wind. First job is stripping the cage bare
and removing the level wind mechanism from the cage. The
white nylon level wind cog thats located in the left hand side
plate will also be made redundant by this conversion so that can
also be removed permanently. On later models with an Ultracast
spool you will need to remove the white cog that locates on
the end of the spool as this causes a windmill effect and slows
the cast. Replace the cog with a Speed
Bush or Bullet,
depending on your model of reel.
- 3. Fit the replacement bar in place to provide support
before removing the top bar as this will avoid the risk of
distorting the cage. Simply slide the bar carefully into
place and then secure with the screws provided. Although not
really necessary some people like to seal the ends off with
araldite to keep out the salt water and make the job a bit more permanent.
- 4. The next step is to remove the top bar with a
hacksaw. Make two cuts in the bar as show leaving enough bar
at each end to grip with your pliers (to remove the bar ends from
the cage in the next step) without contacting the rest of the
frame. Stop short of going right through with the first cut
until you have finished the second cut as this will make the job
much easier. You will see in the picture that I have put
tape over the replacement bar and this is simply to prevent my new
bar from getting scratched if I should accidentally catch it with
- 5. We can now remove the bar ends from the
cage. If you are a handy sort you could make a small tool to
press the ends out, towards the inside of the cage, but most
people like me simply grip the cut end of the bar with pliers and
wiggle them out of the hole carefully. Our latest version of Studs
are a slightly different fit to our previous chromed brass studs and will
require the removal of the small tab present on the hole on the left side
of the cage with a small file. Both studs will then require fixing with a
small amount of either Super Glue or Araldite to hold them in place.
- 6. The bar ends have now been removed and you should now
clean off the cage of any filings etc before fitting your
studs. If you are going to form your own studs from the old
bar ends simply hold them in a vice and cut them back with a
hacksaw. They can then be spun in an electric drill and the
cut ends can be smoothed and tidied with a file and some emery
cloth. Whichever type of stud you use both can be refitted
in the same way.
- 7. The left hand stud should just snap into position with
finger pressure. If it wont go into place (no bad thing as
it means the hole is still nice and tight) simply put the side
plate back on with the other two screws and then, holding the stud
in as far as it will go, pull it into place by tightening the
remaining side plate screw. On older models of reel the anodised
screws are too long to fit our own conversion studs so you will
need to replace the left hand side plate screws with later chrome
ones. I also like to use a bit of Araldite on the back of
the studs to keep out the salt and fix them permanently into
- 8. The right hand stud is normally a bit of a tighter fit
in the cage. To install it first fit the right hand side plate and
gear assembly to the cage in the usual way using the two usable
thumb screws. Simply locate the stud correctly in its hole
and pull it into place with its thumbscrew. Be careful to
engage the thread properly before tightening otherwise you may
cross it when you tighten it all up and again, as with the left
hand stud, a little Araldite will keep out the salt and gunk.
- 9. Your cage should now look something like this.
Have a final check to make sure you have removed all the filings
from cutting off the old bar and then clean up any mess from the
Araldite (if you used it) with a little meths on a rag, making
sure that no glue has found its way onto any threads as this will
cause problems later. Once you are satisfied everything is
cleaned off properly rebuild the reel, setting it to one side for
24 hours to allow any Araldite used to go off before trying it
out. If you didnt use glue then there is no reason why you
shouldnt head straight for the beach or field immediately.
- 10. The finished article. A neat and professional
looking conversion that should outlast the rest of the reel at
less than half the cost of a factory converted CT Cage. The
conversion itself shouldnt take much more than an hour to
complete even for a total beginner. If you have any questions
about any aspect of this conversion or the parts used please email
us via our Contact